After virtually completing the upper hull (apart from fitting the new missile bay doors) I decided to turn my attention to the suspension and for me it feels like a turning point (excuse the pun) as after this point the biggest job will be adding the etch detail (and there is a LOT of it).
The BIG problem at present is that there are some vital parts missing such as the suspension struts and the bits that fix the front wheels to the suspension for the steering. The struts I could scratch from styrene tube but the steering bits will be VERY tricky so I've contacted Miniman Factory with a grovelling email to see if they can help considering I purchased the kit in November 2013. Fingers crossed!
The units are not fixed in place at the moment and the suspension remains workable to make sure I get all eight wheels on the flat, after which they will be firmly glued. I just hope Miniman Factory come through otherwise I'm screwed.
Edit; Miniman Factory are sending the parts YAY! Miniman have a GREAT customer service as they sent me a new missile bay earlier this year due to the distortion and holes in the original piece
Hi and welcome to my small corner of the internet and here you will find a variety of models that mainly comprises armour, aircraft and figures. I'll be adding pics of current projects and older stuff plus models that have appeared in a couple of magazines, Model Military International and Military Miniatures in Review. Thank you for stopping by and taking an interest in my work.
Wednesday, 22 October 2014
Saturday, 18 October 2014
SS-23 progress...sort of
OK so 'game on' I said in the prior post with the aim of getting this sucker off the bench but it seems to be for every step forward there's a couple back. In this case I test-fitted the missile bay doors and due to my stupidness in removing too much material at the bottom of each part they now have huge gaps....Sooooooo after a brief walk around the house before I drop-kicked the damn model I've decided to replace the doors entirely with 30 thou (around 0.7mm) styrene sheet. The upside to this is the doors will be more of a scale thickness although I'm going to have to fix them in the open position when the model gets finished;
Also the more I look with this kit the more I find wrong when comparing it to the walkaround pictures I have although as you may understand I'm keeping a lot back for the future article. Sorry about that :o)
I think once I've got the main hull sorted it will feel like I'm getting somewhere, especially when I can start fitting the suspension and wheels. At the moment it's slow going and becoming frustrating but there ya go, resin kits for you.
Also the more I look with this kit the more I find wrong when comparing it to the walkaround pictures I have although as you may understand I'm keeping a lot back for the future article. Sorry about that :o)
I think once I've got the main hull sorted it will feel like I'm getting somewhere, especially when I can start fitting the suspension and wheels. At the moment it's slow going and becoming frustrating but there ya go, resin kits for you.
Wednesday, 15 October 2014
SS-23...game on!
After a bit of respite from the damned thing I decided to tackle the poor fit between the cab and rear hull tonight. No amount of filling or filing would have resulted in a good fit due to the steps between the two parts so in the end I had to use styrene sheet to build up the right side of the cab. I also had to scratch a new grill as the original had to be removed to be able to fit the styrene.
Even after doing this the cyano glue made the styrene rather brittle and I ended up with a bit missing (yes it was stuck to my bloody finger). After sanding it to shape (more or less) the next step will be to use 500 grade Mr Surfacer to TRY and blend it all in.
Gawd who's idea was it to start this bloody model? Oh yeah it was me......D'OH! :o)
Edit; I did'nt use Mr Surfacer after all, I just used some Milliput instead
Even after doing this the cyano glue made the styrene rather brittle and I ended up with a bit missing (yes it was stuck to my bloody finger). After sanding it to shape (more or less) the next step will be to use 500 grade Mr Surfacer to TRY and blend it all in.
Gawd who's idea was it to start this bloody model? Oh yeah it was me......D'OH! :o)
Edit; I did'nt use Mr Surfacer after all, I just used some Milliput instead
Monday, 6 October 2014
Another Luchs update
I had a whole one hour at the bench this afternoon so I glued a few etchy bits on;
Removing the moulded on tool clamps resulted in a couple of breakages probably due to my clumsiness, I was able to glue the axe together but I had to replace the engine crank handle with fuse wire and styrene rod. What was I saying about keeping things simple? I just can't help myself :o)
Removing the moulded on tool clamps resulted in a couple of breakages probably due to my clumsiness, I was able to glue the axe together but I had to replace the engine crank handle with fuse wire and styrene rod. What was I saying about keeping things simple? I just can't help myself :o)
Luchs update
One thing I noticed about this kit is the lack of a tow cable. On the rear engine deck Tasca have provided the five clamps for one but not the cable so after a rummaging through the spares box and coming up with nothing I made my own using fine nylon thread and some 1mm dia. styrene rod drilled out for the thread to go through.
I estimated a length of 150mm for the cable and if anything it was a little too long but it's staying put. The clamps all face inward but I will carefully twist a couple around to avoid a uniform look.
One thing I am trying to avoid is getting too bogged down in research and super detailing as it can kill a little project like this stone dead but (there is ALWAYS a but) I do have some good references available such as Achtung Panzer No.6 and Panzers at Saumur No.1 and it seems a shame not to use them.
I estimated a length of 150mm for the cable and if anything it was a little too long but it's staying put. The clamps all face inward but I will carefully twist a couple around to avoid a uniform look.
One thing I am trying to avoid is getting too bogged down in research and super detailing as it can kill a little project like this stone dead but (there is ALWAYS a but) I do have some good references available such as Achtung Panzer No.6 and Panzers at Saumur No.1 and it seems a shame not to use them.